Embroidery / Вишивка

Rushnyk (рушник)

The ritual cloth is called a rushnyk (рушник) and is a part of East Slavic rituals and religious ceremonies. The rushnyk is always rectangular but of varying lengths. The shape represents a life's journey and people embroider them from bottom to top. Rushnyky are used throughout people's lives, from their baptisms, to weddings, to their funerals, and are believed to be a median between man and God. 

In "Rushnyky: Ukrainian Ritual Cloths," Chrystyna M. Nykorak calls rushnyky "mirrors of a nation's cultural ancestral memory." She continues to explain that "the act of spinning thread and the process of weaving linen embodies a spiritual power. Three fingers are used for twisting the threads and embroidering the linen, the same three fingers are used for the sign of the cross...The spinner's energy actually enters the linen." Nature plays a role in creating a rushnyk as well. The sun and moon whiten the cloth, which is soaked in water and dried by the wind.

Birth and Baptism 

Baptism is an important milestone for a child and their parents in Ukraine. Ukrainians believe that it is crucial to baptize their babies within the first year of their life because the child acquires divine protection from misfortune and evil spirits and gets introduced to God once the ritual is done. 

A white christening cloth called a kryzhma (крижма), which signified the newborn's purity of soul, was used during baptisms. A cream-colored cloth or rushnyk could also be used. After the child is immersed in holy water, they are tucked wrapped in a kryzhma. Traditionally, godparents are the ones who buy the kryzhma for their godchildren. According to Ukrainian traditions, a kryzhma can also be used as a blanket for a child. It is believed that a kryzhma is strictly a personal item that cannot be reused or bestowed to someone, because it is associated with this intimate and spiritual connection.

Engagements and Weddings

Rushnyk is one of the most essential parts of a Ukrainian wedding, presented at every stage, from the engagement process to the wedding ceremony itself. The rushnyk is considered a powerful amulet for the future of married life. It symbolizes blessing, happiness, well-being, and unity for the newlywed couple who decided to cross their life paths into one. There are four types of ryshnyks used for weddings: wedding rushynyk, union rushnyk, welcoming rushyk, and icon rushnyk. 

The process of engagement in ancient times began with a rushnyk. At that time, the bride had to embroider a rushnyk herself since the giving of a rushnyk to her fiancé symbolized  her agreement to marry him (skrynka-rukodillja.com).

The most important one is the main wedding rushnyk, used both during the church ceremony and the official wedding at the registry office. It is laid in front of the bride and groom, who stand on the rushnyk, symbolizing their agreement to marry. In some parts of Ukraine, it is still common to kneel on the rushnyk instead.

The union rushnyk is used to tie the hands of the newlywed couple, symbolizing the unity of their paths and creating a close bond between two people who chose each other based on love, devotion, fidelity, and spiritual unity. The welcoming rushnyk is placed underneath korovai (wedding bread). Once the wedding ceremony is over, the newlyweds' parents meet the couple at the venue with korovai, decorated with the welcoming rushnyk. The couple has to tear a piece of korovai and eat it with a pinch of salt. A bozhnyk is a kind of rushnyk used to decorate icons during the ceremony of parental blessings (skrynka-rukodillja.com).

Other Uses

Apart from the blessing ceremony, Ukrainians decorate icons in the houses and Easter baskets with rushnyky. 

For example, pokuttia, a corner in a Ukrainian house, is located diagonally from the stove, and the area next to it, where the family gathers to pray, is traditionally decorated with rushnyky. Many Ukrainians decorate their icons with a long embroidered rushnyk. Pokuttia is considered to be the holiest place in the house. 

Mothers embroidered rushnyky, shirts, and other items to give their sons when they left for the army. If he died in battle, he would be buried in this shirt. Listen to the song "Rushnychok (Рушничок)" which references a mother giving her son a rushnyk when he leaves home.

A long rushnyk, called a sivyj or savan (сувій or саван), was used to cover a coffin and lower it into the grave. 

Vyshyvanka (вишиванка )

Vyshyvanka is a traditional Ukrainian embroidered shirt or dress, typically made from linen, cotton, or hemp, embroidered with six primary colors - white, black, green, blue, red, or yellow. Vyshyvanka was considered to be "a second skin." Ukrainians believed it could repel and protect them from evil spirits, negative energy, and misfortune. Vyshyvanka is integral to Ukrainian culture as Ukrainians wear it both on holidays and in everyday life. It signifies the unbreakable bond between the past and present Ukrainians managed to preserve.

History of Vyshyvanka

Embroidering was an ancient craft. It is impossible to trace back to the precise time when the vyshyvanka was invented, but this fascinating craft has been evolving over centuries, gradually being incorporated into contemporary Ukrainian culture. Early archaeological findings in Ukraine indicate that embroidery was common for Trypillian culture (c. 5500 to 2750 BC) (Malyuha, 267). Did you know that Trypillian culture also played a significant role in the development of Ukrainian ceramics?

The Scythians, who lived on the territory of what is now Ukraine, were known for their intricate embroidery craftsmanship, and early archaeological discoveries indicate that the Scythians used embroidered garments. Embroidered patterns of Scythian artifacts revealed similarities to vyshyvanka motifs. Vyshyvanka, as it became known, likely evolved from these early forms of decorative embroidery. As the Sarmatians later settled in Ukraine, there was a clear distinction in social and economic classes. Wealthy women embellished their attire with gold embroidery, while less wealthy women used colored embroidery (elle.ua).

The continuity of embroidery tradition was incorporated in Kyivan Rus, a confederation of Slavic tribes, which existed from 882 until 1240. The first embroidery schools appeared during the time of Kyivan Rus, near the 11th century. The schools were founded by Anna of Kyiv, the sister of Yaroslav the Wise (Malyuha, 268) and were operated by girls and women who had learned this kind of craftsmanship since childhood. However, vyshyvankas were affordable only to the ruling class, noblemen, and wealthy people due to the high production costs and materials like silk and linen (unian.ua). 

The analysis of vyshyvanka's history in Ukrainian publications suggests that since the 17th century, embroidery began to spread among the people, peaking and becoming common in the 19th century. The breakthrough of vyshyvanka in Ukrainian culture was attributed to these historical factors:

1. Vyshyvanka, worn by Cossacks, became a symbol of national pride in the Ukrainian Cossack Hetmanate, a state that existed from 1648 until 1764 (elle.ua, unian.ua).
2. The craftsmanship of embroidery was widely learned in folk, becoming a profession and marking a turning point in the history of embroidery(unian.ua, Malyuha).
3. The development of trade relationships prompted the appearance of new materials and techniques (Malyuha, 269).
4. The Industrial Revolution and the invention of the embroidery machine in France in 1821 (Malyuha, 269).

Ukrainian culture faced challenges following the Soviet occupation of Ukraine, and the vyshyvanka tradition came into oblivion due to Soviet repressions. Following the aggressive policies of Russification and Soviet assimilation, vyshyvanka became a symbol of resistance. Despite the political and cultural repressions, the Ukrainian intelligentsia was influential in preserving and popularizing Ukrainian vyshyvanka culture.

Vyshyvanka Today

The vyshyvanka tradition was gradually restored following the inevitable Soviet Union's collapse and subsequent Ukraine's independence in 1991. The events of the Orange Revolution and Revolution of Dignity revolutions gave a new rise to vyshyvanka as many Ukrainians began to reclaim their national and cultural identities, reflecting on their historically rich past. Furthermore, vyshyvanka has become a symbol of resilience after the Russian invasion of Ukraine. 

Vyshyvanka is a representation of Ukrainian culture that has become a fashion trend recognized worldwide. Today, you can notice vyshyvankas worn by Ukrainian politicians, famous figures, influencers, and everyday people. Ukrainians consider it to be a symbol of national pride and cultural identity, which links them with the generations of their ancestors. The fashion trend of wearing vyshyvankas has become so viral that many well-known singers, actors, models, and politicians like Katheryn Winnick, Liev Schreiber, Maye Musk, Demi Moore, Mila Kunis, Kate Moss, Dita Von Teese, Andrii Shevchenko, Kelly Rutherford, and Salma Hayek have been spotted wearing vyshyvanka (tsn.ua, sobytie.dp.ua).