Kazakh Felt Traditions

“Felting is a point of pride and interest for most citizens of Kazakhstan...Practiced by our ancestors, it’s part of our heritage.” 

-Kazakh textile artist Mereke Aidarsha

Introduction

Felt is a nonwoven fabric that is created by pressing, condensing, and matting wool fibers together. The tradition of making felt, is an important aspect of some Central Asian cultures including Kazakh and Kyrgyz for centuries. "One of the earliest samples of nomadic felt found on the territory of Kazakhstan were made by Saka tribes (Scythians) and is dated first century B.C." (Karagbekova, "Tekemet and Syrmakh"). The nomadic technique of making felt, Kiyzu Basu, is also known as assar and Merino or Kazakh-khoy. 

Raising sheep was a large part of the traditionally nomadic lifestyle. Therefore, sheep's wool was abundant and readily available. Felt has practical benefits besides the availability of wool. Covering dwellings with felt helps keep things warm in winter and cool in summer. It protects against insects, dust, wind, and also insulates the structure from outside noise. The traditional dwelling known as a yurt, or ger, in Kazakh is called "felt house" киіз үй.

The yurt was a symbol of the World Tree. Within the yurt, the felt carpets marked the floor as "the border of the underworld, while the carpets protected people from that world. The walls and the inner space belong to the world of people. The dome space belongs to the world of deified ancestors – the guardian spirits" (Zhukenova, 3720).

Process

The process is labor intensive. Felt was made either by the entire village or by a whole family. Making felt is a multi-step endeavor that requires experience and skill. Felt was made from sheep's wool. Sheep are sheered twice a year, once in spring and once in autumn. The wool must then be washed and cleared of burrs and sticks. The process of felt picking/cleaning is called sabau. It is then laid out to dry on a special mat made of dried grass called a shyi in layers to reach the desired thickness, and rolled into felt (Bunn, 29). 

Once the felt is dyed the desired color and rolled to compress the fibers into one textile, it is time to create patterns for various felt creations. There are a few different techniques used to create patterns in felt.

1. Cutting a pattern out of prefelt (taldyrma), which results in a sharp-looking pattern
2. A pattern is made using a wool rove, which results in a more blurred pattern. To create contrast in these types of patterns, a border is created using a wool thread of a different color (sulyk).

Once a pattern is made, it needs to be added to a base. The pattern is laid on top of the base and rolled tightly with a shiy. Hot water is then poured on the roll and kneaded with elbows and feet. It is rolled and unrolled many times, and more hot water is applied as needed. Sometimes animals are used to help roll felt. The roll can also be thrown on the ground to help compress the fibers. This technique is called karpu (Karagbekova, "Tekemet and Syrmakh"). 

The syrmak, which is the main decorative parts of a yurt, is used not only to cover the walls of a yurt, but also in official celebrations, holidays, and rituals. The wool used to create a syrmak/shydrak is premade and dyed, then cut and stitched together to create a mosaic pattern. The process can take months or years.

Traditionally, felt making was a woman's craft. The art of creating syrmak/shydrak was passed down from mother to daughter. Daughters would make their own wedding shydraks as part of their dowries (Bunn, 28).

The patterns seen in syrmaks are both beautiful and meaningful. They feature a balance of foreground and background, rhythm of elements, symmetry, which reflect the "nomadic philosophy and view of life: unity of man and nature, harmony of human soul and spirit of nature" (Karagbekova, "Tekemet and Syrmakh").

Sources:

Bunn, Stephanie. "A 'Making Point of View': Deep Knowledge from Local Practice, with Special Reference to Felt-Makers in Kyrgyzstan." Journal of Museum Ethnography, No. 24, Making Things: Papers from the Annual Conference of the Museum Ethnographers Group Held at the Museum of Rural Life, University of Reading, 12-13 April 2010 (2011), pp. 23-40.

Ewald, Kirby. "Weaving Through Kazakhstan’s Cultural Heritage."Smithsonian Center for Folklife and Cultural Heritage Magazine. (2024).

Karagbekova, Raushan. "Tekemet and Syrmakh," Encyclopedia of Crafts in Asia Pacific Region (APR) Traditional Handmade Products.

Zhazira D. Zhukenovaa , Gulnar S. Soltanbaevaa and Baikonir Izhanova. "Traditional Felt in the Kazakhs Folk Art." International Journal of Environmental & Science Education Vol. 11 No. 10. (2016) pp. 3719-3729.

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